We have been to Goa many times and always thought that Goa had only beaches, temples and churches to offer as tourist spots besides the sea food. We were wrong when we discovered that there was one such spot which was different and unique - The DudhSagar Falls. We decided to visit this place and set out one morning with an extra pair of clothing and towels. We hired a cab and the cabbie informed us that a Mahadev Temple at Tambdi Surla was worth visiting. We agreed to go along with him, though we were more eager to see the falls rather than visit any temple as we had been visiting many temples in the course of our journey. As we drove from Panjim, the winding roads of the Anmod Ghat (Western Ghats) flanked on both sides with lush greenery, were a treat to the eyes and lifted our spirits. The drive was long one and we reached a place which looked like a wild life sanctuary. Later we learned that the place was known as Molem Wildlife Sanctuary and was on the bank of a stream of river Surla. We walked through the lush green surroundings and down a small bridge on the glistening waters of stream. Just as we turned a cornered we saw one of the most gorgeous pieces of relic from ancient India in the Golden Era.
Way to the temple
The temple stands in all its glory on one of the best locations in Goa. The first glimpse of the temple from the forest itself leaves an indelible memory. The beautiful greyish black rock of the temple shines against the backdrop of the lush green mountains and a beautiful manicured lawn surrounds the temple giving it a glorious look.
The Temple was built by the Kadambas of Goa in the 13th century AD. It is placed on a plinth and has intricate carvings on its pillars and walls. The temple consists of a garbagriha (sanctum sanctorum) , a small antarala (ante chamber ) and a nandi mandapa. The ceiling is decorated with carvings of lotus flowers and the pillars with rosettes. In the garbagriha there is a small lingam mounted on a pedestal. We walked around the precincts of the temple and sat on the plinth taking in the scenery.
The rosettes on the ceiling
We then decided to go to the Dudhsagar Waterfalls as it was late in the afternoon. This waterfall is located in the Sanguem , Goa. One can go by road or rail to Kulem railway station and then trek to the waterfall or hire a jeep with a driver to get closer in, however, there will still be a walk through rocks and rough paths to reach the base of the falls. This waterfall is also known as Tambdi Surla to some of the local people. The jeep ride is bumpy and goes through rough rocky terrain and streams and lots of fun for people looking for some adventure. We had to leave the jeep and walk for 20 mins to get to the waterfall and as we neared we could hear the sound of gushing and swirling water. Round a corner and you can see the majestic cascade of white water, gushing over the steep, nearly vertical face of the mountain from a spectacular height of 1017ft. The river Mandovi, which is the main river of Goa, begins on the Deccan plateau in the state of Karnataka.
The Dudhsagar Waterfall
Winding its way through the Western Ghats, this river plummets over the highest peaks on the border of Goa and Karnataka, thus forming the Dudhsagar falls. The pool formed at the base of the falls is very tempting and many people were seen swimming in it for hours. There is a lot of force in the water during the rainy season and it is not safe to swim in the pool or go under the fall. After an hour we decided to return to the jeep before it got too dark.
The trip was truly a memorable one and we yearned to go back.
Tips:
1) If visiting around monsoon, be prepared for occasional showers, carry a raincoat. Always carry an extra pair of clothes.
2) There is no direct way to reach Dudhsagar, you either take a train to Londa junction. From there, you need to take a local bus/taxi/train to either Kulem or Castle Rock. This takes about 3 hours. The trek starts from here, a trek on track for over 12 kms to reach the waterfalls .
3) Trek from Castle Rock station is about 14 kms and about 12 kms from Kulem station.
4) In case you plan to trek, come prepared with a good pair of walking shoes, the tracks look easy to walk on but the gravel can be quite a pain when walking for long distance.
5) The jeep ride is also rough and is about 20 mins. of bone rattling experience.
6) The terrain near the falls is very rocky and hence requires a lot of hop, skip and jump.
Planning a wildlife trip? Then Bandhavgarh is the best bet where lots of sightings have been reported. Thus we planned to take up the offer of Twine Outdoors and joined them in this adventurous tour of the Bandhavgarh National Park. We had never been to any wildlife sanctuary and so were very eager to see wildlife at close quarters. Packing our cameras and binoculars had never been so exciting.
All the members of the tour were supposed to meet at Dadar station. We reached the station on time and Archis, the tour leader, welcomed us with a broad smile. As we waited for the train, many members who had already been to such wildlife tours related all kinds of exciting stories. One thing common about the stories was - there is no guarantee you may see a tiger at all. Hearing this, we hoped, wished and prayed it would not happen to us. As the train chugged in, after some scrambling for our seats, we set out on an enthralling journey. We had to get off at Jabalpur and the journey from Mumbai to Jabalpur is 15 hours approx. Archis and his team entertained us throughout and the strain of the journey was not felt at all. We had a great time playing games and cracking jokes and sharing stories. We reached Jabalpur the next morning and though it was the summer season in the month of May we did not feel any discomfort in the heat.
Balancing Rock : Jabalpur--
On the way we had breakfast and Archis took us to the outskirts of the city of Jabalpur to see the balancing rocks. We were amazed at the balancing rock which is located near Madan Mahal fort in Jabalpur city of Madhya Pradesh. We gazed at it incredulously, awe struck at the miracles nature can offer. It is a formation of rocks perfectly balanced without other supports. How did it balance in this manner in the event of an earthquake?
The balancing rocks
We took pictures from all angles and left for the visit to the Dhuandhar waterfalls. "Dhuan" which means smoke and "Dhar" which means flow, meaning a waterfall which creates an effect of smoke which looks misty. The Dhuandhar Falls are located on Narmada River in Bhedaghat and are 30 meters high. The Narmada River, making its way through the world-famous Marble Rocks, narrows down and then plunges in a waterfall known as Dhuandhar. The plunge, which creates a bouncing mass of mist, is so powerful that its roar is heard from a great distance.
The Dhuandhar Waterfalls
The mesmerising sights and sounds of the waterfall has a calming and exhilarating effect on you. The fall of the water is so forceful that it is thrown back in the air creating a misty effect and adds to its beauty. A must visit place. No wonder this is called the "Niagara of India" as it has the same look and feel.
One can view the Dhuandhar waterfall from the east bank as well as from the west bank of Narmada River. To see the other side of Dhuandhar Waterfall you have to take the Cable Car Service available at Bhedaghat. The Cable Car Service is available at the entrance gate of Bhedaghat. The ropeway facility starts from the eastern bank of Narmada River, crosses the river and then drops you at the west bank of the River. The ropeway facility is not available from 1:30 P.M to 2:00 P.M as the staff goes for lunch.
The Marble Rock Tour
The small town of Bhedaghat has evolved into a major tourist attraction thanks to the Marble Rocks. The Bhedaghat Marble Rocks is featured in the Shahrukh Khan-starrer Bollywood film Asoka, in the song Raat Ka Nasha Abhi.
The Rocks stretch on both sides of the Narmada river and are a visual treat. Soaring to towering heights which reach up to nearly 100 feet, the Marble Rocks look benignly down upon the gently flowing waters of the Narmada river. These placid waters turn into a roaring white torrent some distance away, forming the Bhedaghat Dhuandhar Falls.
The Marble Rocks
We had a boat tour in the ravines and marveled at the splendor of this beautiful place. The limestone rocks, rising perpendicularly out of the placid waters of Narmada River, creates a stunning spectacle. When the boat travels through the gorges the rocks shimmer in the rays of the sun creating a magical effect. It is a unique experience and a must visit site in your trip to Jabalpur.
We were not willing to leave the place as this marvel of nature had us completely enraptured, but time was a constraint and we had to leave for our hotel.
By the time we reached the hotel it was late in the evening. We were served dinner and all of us retired early for the night as we had leave early in the morning before dawn the next day for the forest safari.
The Jungle Safari
There is a saying about the Bandhavgarh Park that goes: "In any other Park, you are lucky if you see a tiger. In Bandhavgarh, you are unlucky if you don't see (at least) one."
We woke up at 3:30 am the next morning at the knock on the door and readied ourselves for the exciting safari. Scores of jeeps arrived spewing dust alll around and there was a mad rush to clamber into them. Each group was assigned a jeep and we were asked to wear a scarf or similar headgear as it was an open jeep.
We preferred wearing hats and set off for the jungle with a feeling of nervous anticipation. We first rushed to the booking centre at Magadhi. There are three zones in the Bandhavgarh National Park - Tala, Magdhi and Khitauli. Amongst these Tala is the premium zone and most popular as many tiger sightings have been reported from here. It usually remains in demand throughout the season. Jungle Safari Routes" A, B, C, D" lies in Tala zone. Among them Route B-D or D-B are popular among visitors. This zone remains in demand so make an advance booking to secure its entrance ticket for the desired safari.
We were booked for the Magadhi zone and as we started our journey the road turned dustier and rougher. We were first taken to Charger Point which is created in memory of the tiger Charger who was a legendary king of the Bandhavgarh tiger reserve. He was famous for his ferocious roar and his long leap. He was called "Charger" because he had once charged at an elephant carrying tourists. He had an unusually aggressive stance towards safari jeeps and and elephants. He was a fearless male and could enter the territory of other tigers anytime without fear. He held the largest territory in the Bandhavgarh Reserve of all times and all the females were his for the taking. When Charger became old, he was pushed out of the Tala range by his son ( male from his daughter Mohini). When Charger was not sighted in the park the forest officals got worried and presumed him to be dead. Later he was found outside the Tala range. After this he was put in an enclosure. He died in the month of September in the year 2000 in an enclosure at Magdhi zone of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. A memorial was made in a place where his body was disposed of and is known by the name of ‘Charger Point’.
As we drove through the jungle we spotted many inhabitants like the the Gaur, beautiful sambar and barking deer, wolves and jackals, hyenas and peacocks trying to woo the peahens.
It was a beautiful morning and as the sun shone through the thick forest the birds were chirping and the peacocks were dancing.
All of a sudden the jeep stopped and we saw the driver looking for some marks on the dusty road. He declared that there was a tiger near by as he pointed to his huge pug marks.
The Tiger trail
All hell broke loose in the jeep. Everyone scrambled towards the front with their cameras ready in hand and eyes searching the jungle. Suddenly we heard the danger call of a monkey from nearby. It was a warning to the other animals that a tiger was searching for its prey. Another call echoed from the other side of the jungle in a diagonally opposite direction which meant that the tiger was somewhere between these two positions. All of us were on high alert. The jeep had slowed down but there was no sign of any tiger. Suddenly as we turned a corner we saw the jeep ahead of us come to a standstill. On peering closely we saw the most beautiful sight we had ever seen in the jungle. A tiger had stretched itself across the road and lay there nonchalantly, his flame and coal colored coat shining in the sunlight, his beautiful eyes gazing directly at us. Suddenly he yawned and his giant vampirish fangs sent shivers down my spine. We parked the jeep and everyone watched him silently as he flicked his tail and suddenly stood up and started walking in the opposite direction. all the jeeps followed him slowly. His gait was majestic, muscles rippling with sinewy strength and his brass brilliant coat shining in the sun. The jeep moved slowly along with him. He did'nt even bother to glance behind at us and kept on walking majestically at his own pace.
Suddenly he turned left into a thicket and started prowling as if he had marked his prey. We could see some sambars grazing at a distance. My heart went out to them. There was a deep throated call by a monkey and all the sambars sprinted away as fast as possible. The tiger flicked his tail as if in anger. I was thankful of the distance between us and had goosebumps when he turned towards us but then quickly disappeared into the jungle. After he left there was a lot of jubilation in all the jeeps on having spotted him for so long. This memory will ever be etched on our minds.
The most amazing fact of the jungle, as told to us by our guide, was that the animals prey only when they are hungry. The tigers do not prey upon humans and I could see some inhabitants walking in the jungle without any fear. This meant that these animals strictly followed some code of conduct. As we learned this we realized that it was man who was wild and destructive and not these animals. They never disturbed the ecology around them, neither did they have any greed for more.
We drove back with a sense of gratification for having learnt a lot from this safari. The next morning we drove back into the jungle for bird watching and had a wonderful time watching and knowing about the birds. Our curiosity was amply satisfied by Archis who had a lot of knowledge about these birds
All in all it was a fulfilling journey and made us hungry for more such excitement.
Tips before you on this safari:
1) Carry a scarf, binoculars, camera, torch and full sleeved clothing, sports shoes and hats with you for the safari.
2) Sun glasses and water bottles are also needed, when you are travelling in the afternoon in an open jeep.
3) Cotton clothes are better option during the summer season.
4) The booking of the safari can be done in advance and Tala zone is the most in demand.
5) The jeep ride can be very rough and bumpy at times so it may be very uncomfortable for those not used to such rides.
6) Always take a guide along with you on the jeep as he has a lot of experience in the jungle.
7) You have to be prepared to rise early in the morning as the safari starts at 4 am.
It was a sultry afternoon in Goa in
October and we were searching for a place which was peaceful and provided the
much needed relief from the crowds. We decided upon visiting Gokarna, a small
town in Karnataka, as we also had always wanted to visit the Gokarna
Mahabaleshwar temple. We started early in the morning by road and reached
Gokarna via Karwar by noon. On the way we were compelled to visit the Devbagh beach at Karwar for its spellbinding views as shown in the picture below.
The Karwar Beach
The road, which takes you to the small town from the
highway, is narrow and winding. As we approached the resort, the scene changed
from dusty roads to pathways lined with silver oak trees and banana
plantations. The midday sun had cast its golden colour on the town and the
mountainside. There were hardly any people around. We were happy that our
choice of holiday was right. The town is a sleepy town with few shops and worn
down houses.
Flower Shops on the way
We were a bit apprehensive about our choice of the hotel. We were
welcomed by Ravi and Kishore, two young boys of a mountain top resort, known as Paradise Resort, overlooking the Kudle
Beach. It was a beautiful place surrounded by palm trees in the midst of a
jungle. The cottage we had chosen online was far better than our expectations.
It was like a log cabin with a panoramic view of the jungle. The ground floor
had a huge bathroom with huge glass French windows overlooking the
jungle.
After a quick lunch we decided to
explore the Kudle beach which was nearby. We were provided with a guide who
took us through a twisting narrow path covered with dry leaves and rocks
winding through the jungle. We were thankful that we had worn shoes else it
would have been difficult to walk on the rough terrain. The beach was nowhere
in sight for a long time and just when we had started wondering when this
hopping on rocks would end, we were greeted with a panoramic view of the Kudle
beach. It was simply mesmerising. The sun's rays danced on the waters creating
a magical shimmering effect on the waters. The beach was lined with greenery
and thankfully there were very few visitors. We waded through the waters and
walked bare foot on the sands along the entire stretch.
The Kudle Beach
While on one
side was the aquamarine water of the Arabian sea, the other side was lined with
the rocky mountains of the Western Ghats. The wind was soft and fishermen's
boats sailed lazily through the waters. We noticed some food shacks and decided
to have snacks at one of them. We chose the one at the end of the beach which
gave us a good view of the expansive beach. It was very relaxing and we decided
to leave as the golden sun had set and darkness spread over the beach. The sky
lit up with the stars and the moonlight played with the waves and silvery
sands. The atmosphere was ethereal.
The next day we woke up early in the
morning and set out to visit the Om Beach which is on the other side of Kudle
Beach. The winding roads and the steep steps made us breathless and suddenly at
a corner was one of the most beautiful natural scenes we had seen. The waters
were crystal clear and the beach had a unique shape, like that of the letter
"Om" in Devnagiri script. The view from top was breath-taking and the
beach was deserted except for a few foreigners who could be seen meditating. We
soaked in the sun and as we neared the waters the foamy surf swirled around our
legs. The peaceful blue sky with wispy cotton clouds having bright yellow
fringes left us feeling absolutely relaxed. We left for lunch at the resort and
promised ourselves that we would revisit this place.
The Om Beach
The Kudle beach is west facing. Om beach, Half moon Beach, Paradise Beach (also
known as Full moon) and Belekan beach are south facing. We had no time to visit
the other beaches, a decision we regretted later. Mirjan Fort is a
beautiful fort located in the village of Mirjan on the west coast of the Uttara
Kannada district in Karnataka and is also worth visiting.
The Gokarna Mahabaleshwar temple is a
must visit. This temple in Gokarna is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord
Mahabaleshwar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva. The temple is
considered as pious as the Shiva temple at Varanasi or Kashi in Northern India and
hence is known as the Dakshin Kasi. This temple enshrines the Atma Lingam
of Lord Shiva. According to the legend, the Atmalinga was placed
at Gokarna, in the temple precincts, by Ravana, when
he carried it from Mount Kailash in the Himalayas. The temple is built in a classical Dravidian style of architecture.The temple
has a small hole in the sanctum sanctorum from where devotees can see the top
of the Atma Linga. The best time to visit the temple is during the
festival of Shivaratri which marks the day Lord Shiva was born. During this
festival, Rathyatra (Travel on a Chariot) is held.
Local woman at the temple
The next day we decided to visit the
famous Murudeshwar Temple a few kilometers away from Gokarna. This temple
is built on the Kanduka Hill which is surrounded on three sides by the waters
of the Arabian Sea. Murudeshwar is a picturesque place
situated between Honnavar and Bhatkal. Murudeshwar is also known for the
Murudeshwar Fort and wonderful beaches. Nearby, Netrani Island, is also a very
popular spot for tourists as it offers excellent boating, snorkelling and scuba
diving opportunities.
Murudeshwara has a railway
station on the Mangalore-Mumbai Konkan railway route.
A huge towering statue of Lord Shiva,
visible from great distances, is present in the temple complex. It is the
second highest statue of Lord Shiva in the world. The tallest Shiva statue is
in Nepal. The Rajagopura at the entrance of the temple complex is the world's tallest, standing at 249 feet. The Gopura has 22 floors and is the only Gopura to be fitted with elevators. The view from the top is breathtaking and offers a 360 degree panoramic view of the Arabian Sea surrounding the temple. The next morning we left for home promising ourselves another trip to this lovely destination.
Tips:
1) Gents are not allowed to wear shirts while entering the sanctum santorium of the Mahabaleshwar temple. Ladies can wear traditional Indian outfits.
2) If you are a fish lover then visit the hotel Fish Land at Honnaver.
3) The Paradise resort serves only vegetarian food which is very tasty. They do not accept credit cards. Please confirm before booking.
3) Please do not visit any of these places especially the Murudeshwar temple during the vacations as they are very crowded and you have to stand in long queues for darshan.
4) Always carry an extra pair of clothing while visiting the beaches as the pristine blue waters tempts one to take a dip.
It
was with dismay that we watched the events unfold in Kashmir on the news
channel in April 2016. The news of unrest and curfew in the valley had us
wondering whether we would really be able to achieve our dream of visiting the
valley. We decided that we would take a call just the day before leaving. With bated breath we watched the news
channel on the day before leaving and there was no news of the Kashmir valley at all. We now decided
we would go ahead with the trip that we had been planning for two months.
We packed our bags with a few warm clothes and set off on our journey. As
the flight took off smoothly, the landscape underwent a gradual metamorphosis and as we
flew over Pathankot the Captain announced we would be Srinagar soon. The landscape
now had changed from tropical dry Deciduous forests to Coniferous and Alpine.
Lofty snow capped mountains stood majestically along the horizon. Snow white
cumulus clouds caressed the mountain tops as they travelled with the wind.
It was time to land and eventually we disembarked with trepidation, hoping
fervently our trip would be successful. Back home many people had discouraged
us from taking this risk.
As we
left the departure lounge we spotted Umar bhai with our name placard. He had a
broad welcoming smile on his face which made us feel lighter. As he ushered us
to the car outside the airport we were impressed by the beautiful and clean
surroundings. The road was lined with Kashmiri Fraess't trees which formed a tunnel and the weather was pleasant. We
were pleasantly surprised to see that there were absolutely no signs of unrest on the roads.
Umar Bhai informed us that whatever had happened was in the border areas and
the other parts were quite peaceful. We checked into our hotel and had a
light dinner and retired for the night. The next day we were to leave for
Sonmarg for site seeing.
Day 1: Day trip
to Sonmarg.
The next morning
after packing our sweaters and mufflers in a small bag and having a heavy
breakfast we set off for the mountains of Sonmarg which are 81 kms from Srinagar taking 3 hrs to reach. Umar Bhai gave us some
instructions before entering Sonmarg. He informed us that at a particular
point, he would have to drop us and we would have to either take a local cab or
a pony ride. We preferred hiring a cab. We did as we were told and
haggled for the price. At last the local cab driver agreed at a price of Rs.
2500 and an extra Rs 100 each for a coat and gum boots which are necessary for
walking in the snowy terrain. As he drove higher and higher through the
mountains we asked him where were the Meadows Of Gold. He informed us that the
Sonmarg valley itself was known as Meadows of Gold. The river Sind meanders through Sonmarg and the location offers
exotic shots of waterfalls. The next stop was the Satte pe Satta Point which
was a plain land covered with snow and surrounded by lofty snow capped mountains.
Here we were pestered by the locals to hire a sledge to take us to higher
points. I did hire one after a lot of bargaining and he took us to a point name
Bajrangi Point, where the shooting of the Hindi film "Bajrangi
Bhaijan" had taken place. Here we strongly felt that the people running this place should be properly organized as it seemed chaotic.He then pointed at the Thajiwas glacier which was at a small distance from our cab. Thajiwas glacier is at an altitude of 9,186 feet and is awe inspiring silvery scene set against lush green meadows. Thajiwas is supposed to be the most accessible glacier but we could not go near it, as it was snowing and were advised against it. Later we visited the Table Top point where the Sind river flows down into rivulets and Someshwar temple from where the Amarnath Yatra commences.
Thajiwas Glacier Left in Sonamarg
We felt compelled to stay awhile and enjoy the snow and the cool weather. But it was time to leave and go back to our
original point where Umar Bhai was waiting for us. It was late evening and
time for dinner when we returned to the hotel.
Day
2: Day trip to Yousmarg - Meadow name after Christ
Yousmarg is a hill station situated 47 kms from
Srinagar. It takes an hour and half drive through the Alpine forests covered
with pine and fir trees in the Pir Panjal range. As we arrived in Yousmarg we were mesmerized by its
breath taking panoramic views. I remembered the famous poet Firduas’ words
“
Gar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o, Hameen ast-o, Hameen ast”
(If
ever there is heaven on earth,
It
is here, it is here, it is here”).
I
have never felt more overwhelmed by the beauty of nature. The vast emerald
meadows and the beautiful cottages dotting them, the mountains covered with
green layer of forests and the sparkling waters of the Doodhganga river, the serene blue lake Nilnag and the oval shaped Sang-e-Safed meadow, all left us mesmerized and
speechless. We took a pony ride to the DoodhGanga which was one of the most enjoyable
experiences. The river here comes crashing down the mountains and frothing like a foam and hence
has derived its name. It is an ideal place for lovers of long walks in
picturesque locales. Here cottages by JKTDC are also available and it is worth
staying for a night. The majestic peaks of Tattakuti and Sang-e-Safed are
visible from here.
Doodganga River in Yousmarg
Visitors can also indulge in activities like trekking, skiing and pony riding. Pony rides can cost you anything between Rs 1000 to Rs 1700 per person and there is a board mentioning the various trekking points with their corresponding costs which made it easier for us to make choices without having to bargain.A must see destination. It was similar to our experience in the Swiss Alps many years ago. The locals here are very poor and earn only from tourists. We were overwhelmed by their warmth and courtesy and lack of greed.
Day
3: Srinagar to Pahalgam. (Two nights at Pahalgam)
On the third day we had an early breakfast, we checked out of our hotel and left for Pahalgam which is at a distance of 92 kms from Srinagar, approx. 3 hrs drive. On the way we visited the Martand temple and Gurudwara. Later we visited the bat factory.The cricket and baseball bats made from local willow trees are also exported. The next stop was Avantipur ruins, the ancient part of Kashmir. Lying in ruins are temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Avantiswami. The backdrop of the ruins is scenic, with mountains and fraess't trees.We sauntered around listening to the guide who was enthusiastically relating the history of these ruins. Later we drove through Pampore which is famous for its saffron and has acres of saffron fields which one must visit in the saffron season i.e. September. The best time to visit Kashmir is the month of September when the saffron fields are blooming with flowers and the apple orchards are laden with the best juicy apples, the landscape has an autumn look with varied colors of the rainbow. Marriages are also held in this month and exotic dish Wazwan spreads its aroma in the valley. As we passed through Anantnag, locally known as Islamabad, we saw apple orchards with apple trees blooming with flowers.
An Apple Tree in full bloom
We arrived in Pahalgam at midday and after lunch set off for a pony ride to Baisaran. A board displayed the rates and we decided we would visit Pahalgam Valley, Kashmir Valley, Kanimarg and Baisaran.
Further up there is Tulian Lake which we chose not to visit it as it would be long and arduous ride. The pony ride was very exhausting but the picturesque views of Pahalgam more than made up for it. Baisaran was way above our expectations. A vast stretch of emerald meadows surrounded by lofty snow capped peaks awaited us. The sun played hide and seek through the snow capped mountains creating a magical effect. No wonder it is known as the "Mini Switzerland" of India. We sat for a long time on the mounds of grass, soaking in the sheer beauty of the surroundings, not willing to leave. Later we rode to Kanimarg, a lonely beautiful spot. From here we started our journey downhill.
A mustard field on way to Pahalgam
Day 4: Pahalgam local site-seeing and visit to Daksum and Sinthan Top. We set off at 10am for Daksum which is at a distance of 40kms from Pahalgam, a 2 hours scenic drive. Daksum is a trekker's paradise with lush green coniferous trees, gurgling streams and enchanting brooks. I noticed that the pine trees here wore a dark green color which was unique. The air was cool, crisp, pure and invigorating. The car took an uphill turn to the picturesque Daksum situated at a height of 8000 ft amidst magnificent grandeur.The gurgling Bringhi river meanders through its mountains and gushes right through its centre. As the car started climbing further, the scenes became even more ethereal and took our breath away. The snow filled gorges, thick forests, rivulets of melted snow, the chirping of the birds, sights and sounds which are a rarity in our cities, were etched on our minds. It was one of the most memorable experiences. As we drove uphill it started snowing adding to our joy.The flip side was that Sinthan Top was closed because the road leading to it had heavy snowfall. Thus we had to turn back and start our downhill journey. The weather here is always unpredictable and one has to depend on one's luck while planning for this journey.
Enjoying the snowflakes in Daksum
Umar Bhai informed us that he would be taking us to the Kokernag gardens from here. We crossed the Achabal gardens on our way to Kokernag. We did not visit Achabal as Umar Bhai informed us Kokernag would be better.
-
The Kokernag gardens
Kokernag and Verinag are built during the Mughal rein. "Koker" which means "chicken" or "fowl" in the local language and "nag" means "spring". The five springs that gush out of the thick forest, of the surrounding mountains, resemble the claws of a "fowl". The peace and tranquility experienced in these gardens is incomparable. The well manicured lawns, multi-colored flowers and the sound of the gushing water makes you feel one with nature.
The Verinag Gardens
Verinag is the source of the river Jhelum and the spring never dries up or overflows.
We returned to the hotel feeling refreshed and looking forward to our next destination - Gulmarg.
Day 5: Local site seeing at Pahalgam and then Gulmarg. We checked out of the hotel after breakfast and headed towards Chandanwari. Umar Bhai drove us to the taxi stand whence we had to hire a local cab. It was a sunny morning and the cab driver was very informative. Chandanwari was a bit of a disappointment as it looked repetitive after visiting Sonmarg. We did not go further up into the snow. Instead we proceeded to our next stop which was Betaab valley and Aru Valley. The scenery here looked amazing and it is named after the Hindi movie "Betaab" which was shot here. We took pictures atop a hill and again skipped this spot which is a valley with a better view from the top. The driver advised us to visit the golf course in Pahalgam which is at a height of more than 7250 feet. The entry at the golf course was free and this turned out to be one of the best sites I had seen. The Himalayan nature in its bounty. The panoramic view of the Himalayas from the golf course was so awesome that we did not feel like leaving this place. As we went deeper into the woods it became even more enchanting. The pictures below speak for themselves.
Golf Course at Pahalgam
Panoramic view of the Pahalgam Golf Course
We reached Gulmarg in the early evening and decided to take a short walk. Pony rides are not necessary in Gulmarg if you love walking. Gulmarg is at an altitude of 8,694 ft and nestled between majestic peaks of the Himalayas. The town is bustling with tourists and people can be seen enjoying pony rides. We preferred walking to the tourist spots like snow point, fishing lake and children's park. We returned to the hotel late in the evening looking forward to our gondola ride the next day. Day 6: Gondola ride to Kungdoor and Khilanmarg(Affarwat peak) The gondola ride tickets can be booked at the Srinagar airport on arrival or online. You can also book them in Gulmarg but usually there is long line. There are guides who help you book tickets faster and remain with you for the entire ride. We preferred having a guide but later realised it was not necessary. There are two phases, the first takes you at a height of 12,293 ft to Kungdoor and the second takes you 13,780 ft to Affarwat. We realized we had made a mistake by booking tickets for the first phase as it was full of slushy snow and very crowded. The snow was slippery and we could hardly walk around. We left within ten minutes and took the gondola ride for the second phase. The tickets can be booked here itself. The second phase is like a dream come true destination. The pure white snow on the table top mountain and the surrounding peaks is a sight etched on our minds. People were seen throwing snow balls at each other and enjoying walking around in the snow. Some were skiing and some were enjoying their sledge rides. It was amusing to see some of them actually eating balls of snow like ice cream. The sledgewallahs here do not allow tourists to go near the LOC unless you hire their sledge which annoyed us.
At the Affarwat Peak
High above the clouds in Affarwat
View of Gulmarg from our hotel room
The views from the gondola are mind-blowing and we wished the gondola would stop intermittently so that we could soak in the beauty of the place. The shepherds settled here live in pretty looking mud huts and migrate to warmer places in winter. It seems they can grow their vegetables on the roofs of their huts which is made of grass.
Enchanting view of mud huts before Affarwat
On finishing the gondola ride we were exhausted after walking in the snow and retired to bed early. Had to return to Srinagar the next day. Day 7: Gulmarg to Srinagar We returned to Srinagar and checked into a houseboat in Dal Lake. It was a completely novel experience. We had to hire a shikara which took us to our houseboat. Shabbir the manager of the houseboat greeted us with warmth and made us feel at home immediately. The food served here is as per your orders unlike in hotels and the atmosphere is homely. Another shikara came to fetch us after sometime and took us for site seeing at the Dal Lake. We were charged Rs. 1400 for the shikara ride which took us to the Floating market, Char Chinar and more.
The interiors of a Houseboat
A Shikara in the Dal Lake
The next morning we were offered "namak chai" (salted tea) and "lavas", a Kashmiri bread by Shabbir. He told us it was a morning routine for most of the Kashmiri people.
The Dal Lake
The Dal Lake
We were amazed at the expanse of the lake. The lake is crowded with houseboats on one side and the floating market is nothing different from a regular market. Many vendors approach you in a shikara coaxing you to have a look at their wares. We were warned not to buy saffron from these people as it is usually fake. There are barely three chinars left at the Char Chinar but the place was like an island in the middle of the lake and had a beauty of its own. We returned to the houseboat after three hours of shikara ride.
Day 8: Local sightseeing at Srinagar We left early with Umar Bhai taking us to the Shankaracharya hill which was visible from our houseboat. It has 290 steps to climb to get to the Shiva temple at the top. The temple precincts are very peaceful and offer a 360 degree view of the valley. Then we visited the Pari Mahal, which is also atop a hill.
The Shalimar Gardens
The Mughal gardens of Shalimar, Nishaat and Chasme Shahi each have distinctive features. Rows of flowers adorn the pathways and in the month of May to September the variety of rose flowers, which one gets to see here, are unique. The Zabarwan range forms a scenic backdrop to these gardens.
Tulip Gardens
Day 9: Visit to Manasbal Lake, Wular Lake and Hazratbal Shrine and Kheer Bhavani. On the way to Manasbal Lake we visited the temple of Kheer Bhavani. The precincts of this temple have the most beautiful Chinar trees ever seen. The temple has a legend which says that when the water in the small tank of the temple becomes red or black, it is an indication of a bad omen. We admired the cleanliness and the upkeep of the lawns of the temple. Manasbal Lake is at a distance of 20 kms from Srinagar. The shikara ride in this lake was one of the most memorable experiences. The lake is serene and the clear blue waters of the lake are a treat to the senses. There is a garden near the lake and as we alighted, we were invited to taste the fish kebabs in a small village near this garden. The dish was lip smacking and offered with "bakarkhani", a roti typical of the Kashmiri cuisine. The roti was soft and delectable. It was fun watching how these rotis were made in the tandoor with deft fingers by the locals.
The serene Manasbal Lake
The Wular lake which is approx. 60 kms from Srinagar has a small park from which offers scenic locales. To some, this lake is somewhat of a disappointment but we found it beautiful as it is devoid of any artificial features. The peace and tranquility of this place is rarely found elsewhere. It is like a balm on your nerves and a total stress buster.
The Wular Lake
The last point of our entire journey was the Hazratbal Mosque. Lying on the western bank of the Dal Lake and facing the Nishaat Baug the mosque is a majestic structure made of pure white marble. The silvery white mosque houses a relic, the Prophet's hair, and is a revered shrine. The grand corridors of the mosque display one of the most intricate architecture.
Hazratbal Shrine
We travelled through the old city and left for the houseboat with a heavy heart. The next day we were to leave Kashmir for home. Important tips for travellers to Kashmir
The best season, according to the local people, is the month of September. If you want to see tulips then the best time is between March 15 to April 15. This year the tulip garden closed on April 15 and we missed it by a few days. The best time to see roses in the Mughal gardens or flowers is the mid to end of May.
The cold season remains till mid-May and the warm months are June and July.
Those who suffer from asthma or heart disease are advised against visiting Affarwat as the oxygen level depletes.
If you are visiting in the cold months it is advisable to carry thermals and woolen clothing. No need of carrying coats or boots for visit to Affarwat or Sonmarg as you get them on rent. Usually it costs Rs300 per person per day in Affarwat and Rs. 100 per person in Sonmarg.
It is compulsory to hire local cabs at Sonmarg and Pahalgam. At Sonmarg the price has to be negotiated whereas in Pahalgam it is fixed.
There is a certain boundary near the gondola station where only cabs of tourists staying overnight are allowed and your booking is checked, else you have to walk it up if you are put up in a hotel outside this boundary. Please check the location of your hotel in Gulmarg before booking.
The booking of the gondola ride is best done online or through a guide. Even if they say the second phase is closed, usually it is to compel you to buy the tickets of the first phase which you may not want to do. So double check before booking.
The pony ride prices can be negotiated but you cannot have a pony ride without a helper in Yousmarg as the terrain is too rough and muddy. Helpers in other places may not be required if you are used to pony rides. The helpers have to be paid extra.
If you hire a sledge they may insist on hiring a helper in Sonmarg. Again here the helper has to be paid extra.
Carry extra cash for all these rides as it could amount to a lot of expenses.
Buy kesar (saffron) only from government outlets or from Zamindar Saffron Company in Pampore who own saffron fields. They also supply good walnuts. We bought from Zamindar and it has given us good results. They also courier it to you through DTDC.
The test for saffron is, the milk in which you mix saffron, should turn yellow and not red. Also the strands should be tapering and not straight.
A word on the people of Kashmir. They are the most warm and trustworthy people we have come across. Rest assured that you will never be robbed. Our bags were taken care of by the shikara wallahs as we went shopping and they guarded them with care. We attribute the success of our trip to the care and warmth of the Kashmiri people.
No need of pony rides in Gulmarg if you love walking.
Rates of silk clothing and artefacts are cheaper in Srinagar than elsewhere.
